![]() ![]() The area is primed, usually with a high build primer-surfacer, before being sanded smooth. The paint around the repair area is then feather-edged to offer a smooth transition from the repair to the existing paint and bodywork. (We’re assuming that no welding is required-that’s a topic for a different story). Generally, the area in question is sanded back to bare metal so that the damage can be repaired, often with some body filler. While the methods, tools and paint supplies can vary a bit depending on the type of paint on the car and the repair work needed, the overall process is about the same. On the other hand, we’ve had good results at home using everything from spray cans and discount spray guns to professional-grade equipment. Body shops tend to be more interested in this kind of repair work than full paint jobs, so you may be able to get a pro to do it during some downtime. Spot repairs can be handled at a body shop or at home using a variety of methods and tools. While this type of work won’t win you a trophy at Pebble Beach, it’s a great way to keep a good driver-level car looking nice. We can often bring a so-so car back to nice-car status with some spot repairs, perhaps a few renewed pieces of trim, and a good detail job. So, what’s the alternative? Save the existing paint work by spot-repairing areas that are no longer up to snuff. Coupled with the “might as wells” that go along with paint work (rubber, chrome, etc.), not only does the expense add up, but the time required can end up taking your car off the road for quite a while. Five-figure paint jobs are getting more and more common. If you’ve priced paint and bodywork lately, you know that good work does not come cheap. ![]()
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